Engine break in

[boosted ej8]

Thank you JDMs1eeper on H-T for the write up

Do not take it easy on the motor for 500... and this is my take on for a break in.

First off, use a CHEAP normal style oil, Walmart 10w40 would work great. Using a synthetic oil is too slipery and while protecting It will "stop" the break in process completely by coating the cylinders too well, preventing the rings from breaking in. Also use cheap oil because on a new motor, you'll change it a couple times.

Second of all, if you have wild non stock cams, make sure you do not install them yet and use the OEM cams if possible. Along w/ the stock ECU. This way atleast you know the engine has a decent tune for the break in.

Start by pulling the ECU fuse and the spark plugs. This will let the motor crank quickly but will prevent it from starting. Crank on it for around 10 seconds. This will send oil threw the system, along w/ filling your fresh oil filter. Install the plugs and ECU fuse if you see no oil on the ground

Turn your key to the ON posistion, listen for the pump to kick in. Do this a few times to prime the fuel. Have some1 looking for leaks at the filter, rail, injectors, FPR and return line. When primed, your ready for the next step.

Start the car w/ a 2nd guy as a oil spotter, makeing sure no oil leaks. Have them checking for any oil or fuel leaks. Also check that you removed the 1/2" rachet off the crank pulley nut (ive done this.. more than once). The person inside the car needs to make sure the oil light goes off and watch the gauges and keeps the car running while the spotter is checking for leaks. If no leaks and all is well... turn the car off.

Check the oil and coolany levels. If all is good. Complete the swap and get the car ready to drive.

Now that your ready to leave start the car, check for oil light to go off. Then leave and look for a near by road that you have plenty of strait away with low to no traffic. Do around 2,000 rpms in 3rd, FLOOR it to around 4,000 rpms then let off. letting the engine slow you down only. (dont use break). When you reach 2k again FLOOR it to 5,000 rpms then let off. Then repeat this, but rev out to around 6000, and repeat until you have done it a total of 12 times. Now "briskly" return home. You should only drive it for 5 MINUTES the first run around to prevent the break in process from stopping. Get back home and let the car cool down COMPLETELY. Check your oil and coolant when the car is cool.

Now that the car is completely cool... jack her up, pull the drain and undo the oil filter. Now refill w/ fresh CHEAP oil (10w40) and put in a new oil filter. Those first 5 minutes, as things were breaking in, metal deposites will be put into the oil. Now w/ fresh oil, its time to go play again.

This time take the car on a local adventure (remember, you must be ready to cut the car off in 5 MINUTES!) Take the car to the local Burger King or Wendys. That should be a 5-6 minute drive + you will get to eat lunch/snack while the car cools off. On your trip out, go 1/2 throttle while accelerating w/ random WOT bursts. (sort, not long) . let the car cool down completely while you eat or listen to music or watch hot chicks come and go. Now, w/ the engine back down to being cool again. Start it up and drive to a strait away, Do your 2k to 6-7k WOT pull and slow back down and repeat 10 times. When done.. Return home!

Now with the engine warm, pull your spark plugs and ECU fuse. This is when you put your compression checker in and check how things are going. By this time, your rings should be almost done being seated, but this will let you know how things are at this point. If you compression numbers are up to reccommended pressures, Your done w/ your break in.

Jack her up... change your OIL and OIL FILTER. Put what ever oil you wanna use in (I would go 10w40 still) This is also when you would install your turbo kit and mods. The reason you dont wanna run a modded setup is because i'll ruin the break in. If your too lean, it'll heat up and destroy your cross hatchd cylinders and glaze the cylinders. It could heat up to the point that it will cause pistons skirt damage also. If you too rich, It'll wipe the cylinders clean, heating things up in the same way.

WHY you shoudl only take it out 5 MINUTES at a time:
Oil breaks down w/ heat, age, moisture and other reasons. When oil gets too hot it will glaze, leaving a smooth silk like surface. By takeing the car out for 5 minute periods for cooling cycles prevents glazing of the cylinders. When the cylinders become glazed, the brake-in process for the rings stops COMPLETELY. The rings will no longer be able to cut/goudge the side of the cylinder walls to make a foot print to make a seal under load. Takeing the car out for small periods keeps the break in process goin.

What the rings are doin in the cylinders and why you need to FLOOR it and back off the gas a engine brake:

Under load, cylinderpressures press down on the pistons & rings. This pressure forces the rings outwards towards the cylinders,. The rings pressing tight against the walls to hold the pressures in the cylinder and convert thermal energy into mechanic's. (i guess thats what you would call it) When you FLOOR the car its creating load that the cylinders need for the rings to make their foot print and seal. The idea in letting the motor slow your down puts the motor in a deep vacume, also helping along the break in process of rings.

With the constant RPM changes and revving up and down, it not only helps the rings but its important for the bearings as well. Bearings need differnt loads and RPM changes to break in correctly. If this is not done, uneven wear will make the bearings fail premature. This goes w/ the rings too, incorrect break in will cause the motor to be low on compression, burn oil and have blow by. Thus shorting the life and performance of your build.

idling the car with no load for 30 minutes or interstate driving the car for long periods are VERY bad for breakin in motors. Also running a bad tune (too rich or lean) could ruin your break in. Interstate driving and idling and low loads for long periods (over 5minutes) will kill the break in. IT will create too much heat and glazing will occure.

The nonscense... :

Synthetics- Id run syenthetics after 3000 miles to assure the motor has completed break in. Id prolly keep a blend in, and around a 10w40 weight.

20w50- This oil protects well, but is WAY over board. I would also ONLY run this weight during summer time when the temps stay higher. If you had this oil in your motor at 40 and below temps, it'll thicken even more. At 30 degree's outside this stuff looks like honey. Good way to ruin a motor and turbo if you ask me... at opp. temps. around 180-210 this oil is wonderful.. but seriously I'd keep this weight far from my motors. Yeah, pro's use thick weight oils... ever see what they do before a race? Blow torch + oil in open pan, ya they heat it up before they even start the motor.

Compression test done at 100 miles
in 100 miles I had: 210 - 205 - 205 - 205

in 101 miles I put the turbo kit on and street tuned for part throttle and boost so i could break in my turbo.

In 300 miles on 10psi I Tune/dynoed: 365.4whp and 273.8 ftlbs

in 400 miles on 10psi I ran: 11.50 @ 125 on BFG's

[boostedEJ8]

wow this helped out a lot i was told something completly different

[IAD_ek]

This is always a real iffy subject. I have heard numerous things but when I broke in my engine, I varied the rpm's but would not put the engine under load. I had perfect compression until the day I sold my car.

[jers99]

Book marked!

[bjscivic]

This in my mind is pretty much the only way.

If you want to run hard, break it in hard.
The reason recommended to tune on a dyno is not only does it give you similar runs as the original post with appropriate cool downs as well. It also is being don't in the presence of an experienced tuner. So....all in all if you're gonna do it in the street, do it the way Daniel posted. If you're going to have it done while being tuned on the dyno, you're just a well off.

[patrickstarpoopiepants]

Wow that'll come in handy for the 240 build!

Thanks for sharing

[stiffdogg06]

Nice write up. Did mine almost the same way. But all I did was run cheap 10w30 oil and did about 10 miles of constant 4-5k runs and then let off the gas so the car could slow down with engine braking. Did 3 compressions tests and the numbers never changed after the first break in period.

But I got a few ?s

Oil doesn't break down. The additives inside the oil break down.

I've NEVER heard of bearings need to be broken in... They shouldn't be touching the crank or any other part for that matter to be "broke in." There should be a slight oil film to keep them from touching things. If they touch, hello spun bearings.

[96ej8]

how about oil filters when first breaking in a fresh motor build.
should i go cheap like get fram?
or get k&n.